Port Townsend united

Ah, the year 2020; a true dumpster fire of decade openers. The main attractions? Record hurricanes, epic wildfires, historic flooding, a cameo appearance by murderous hornets and—of course—a pandemic.

The spotlights feature our world leaders; some elected, others born into their rolls, and a few who are self-appointed. All of those in charge have been called upon to act on behalf of their people. Some rose to the occasion. Others sank to new lows.

And we find ourselves in a time that oddly divides us into strongly opposing groups, especially in the United States, where—among other things—the ever bubbling cauldron of racial injustice officially reached its tipping point.

So many people have suffered, struggling with great loss. So many businesses and livelihoods folding or hanging on by threads—the travel industry being one of them.

Travel. Something we almost always look forward to. Whether a dream vacation, a weekend getaway or a family visit, we eagerly anticipate opportunities to connect with people, places and things familiar or new.

In this world of odd (but hopefully temporary) situations giving way to surreal restrictions (designed to protect us from sharing invisible deadly germs or other safety hazards), venturing to distant (or not so distant) lands has become problematic.

But—working within the rules, laws and guidelines—a family friend, along with my husband and I, managed to venture out for a couple of long weekends to a nearby town that gave us that wonderful opportunity of a much needed escape. Port Townsend. A little oasis where unity was—refreshingly—alive and well.

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Downtown

Enjoying our scenic one hour drive from the Kingston Ferry Terminal to this Kitsap Peninsula hamlet, we suddenly found ourselves in a bustling mini metropolis. Victorian style structures (many featuring cornerstones dated 1880 to 1900) serviced locals and visitors alike.

Having experienced eclectic versions of acceptance regarding the government’s pandemic rules to live by while out in public, this place exhibited a refreshingly uniformed approach. Artistically detailed social distancing signage was on display in every restaurant and store window.

Even more impressive: everyone acting in support. Masks of all different styles worn in solidarity. Other signage supporting lives oppressed were in shop windows, or exhibited as beautiful makeshift, elaborate, memorials. Against the backdrop of historic buildings, inclusion on display by today’s living examples proved to be a beautiful thing.

But first things first—time for my latte! And Better Living Through Coffee was there for me. Excellent coffee and service along the scenic Port Townsend waterfront. And later in the day when it was five o’clock (somewhere…), we found wine tasting on a patio just a couple of blocks down the street at Port Townsend Vineyards. Settling ourselves at a table with a view, we enjoyed a refreshing bottle of their Syrah along with a delicious meat and cheese tray. Ahhhh….

Shopping for souvenirs, a few stores top the list for me. The first: The Spice & Tea Exchange. I never knew I needed Grapefruit & Basil tea until the moment my nose told me I did. Likewise for some of their spices too, like Rosemary & Basil sea salt.

Quimper Mercantile Company was a fun stop too, providing locally made hand soaps—a favorite souvenir of mine. This big store has everything from clothing to cookware. I could easily spend an hour or three inside…

Just in case you need to explore a fun wine shop, I recommend The Wine Seller. Along with the bottled and boxed varieties, they also have corkscrews and cheeses—everything your vino themed picnic needs.

This quaint little city even has an “Undertown” where I found some greeting cards in a wonderful art gallery. Known as the Shanghai Tunnels in the late 1800s (where drunken patrons slept off their rum, only to awaken the next day on a ship bound for The Far East), these tunnels now provide space for artsy shops.

For our first dinner in town, we chose Alchemy Bistro & Wine Bar. Social distancing guidelines gave us the perfect excuse to dine alfresco. The food and service were excellent. Definitely worth a return trip. So we did return another night…

Uptown

When it was time to check in to our B&B, we drove the incredibly short distance uphill, arriving at our home away from home for the next few days: the Ravenscroft Inn. Grand but not grandiose, this beautiful historical structure features an inviting garden, visible just below the expansive front porch.

Adding to the homeyness, a bright, understated interior that made us feel instantly at ease. And to top it off, an amazing view of the Puget Sound we could easily enjoy from the upstairs porch connecting our rooms.

Besides the view, what else could one discover uptown? For starters, the Saturday Outdoor Farmers Market. Just a couple of blocks from our B&B, this street market was the perfect balance of color, flavor and style. And social distancing protocols: only one entrance, which provided a mask check, a hand washing station and hand sanitizer. The volunteer staff also kept track of the headcount.

We had fun discovering seasonal produce, fresh baked breads and pastries, ciders, art and handmade jewelry. Oh, and one “Karen” who thought removing her mask and making a scene was a good idea, but a few patrons let her know otherwise. (The local police escorted her out of the market without incident.)

We found delicious coffee drinks at the Sea Dog Coffee Bar, and when dinner time rolled around, Finistère. Our dining experience was truly wonderful, and the food: five-star quality. This restaurant is one I wish were closer to home. (Their delectable macaroons—made right there at Finistère—rivaled any I’ve had in France.)

Port Townsend really is a fun get-away place to explore. An escape that feels like everyone there is looking out for your health and safety, just so—together—we can all have the opportunity to relax and enjoy ourselves.

If only for a few days, it was nice to feel united in caring, friends and strangers alike, with such simple gestures as wearing masks and washing our hands. It was nice to feel good about watching others stand up for the rules, stand up for what’s right, and to not be afraid to care. United we stand and united all stand in Port Townsend. J 😷

For the holidays

Black Friday. A date that sends shivers down the spines of retailers all over America, pumps adrenaline into the limbs and digits of holiday power shoppers, and surreptitiously begins the unofficially official neighborhood seasonal lights and display contests all over the country.

The Market celebrates
A sign…

Barely catching our breath post Thanksgiving, we plunge right into the anticipation, preparation and discombobulation of December holidays—religious/solstice/festivus —that will carry us to (and through) New Year’s Day.

Why do we do it? Lots of nutty reasons—peer pressure among the most obvious. Anyone who dares to avoid participating in such mayhem will most assuredly be singled out. So…what does one do to get through it all unscathed? I find it best to focus on the fun. Not taking away the significance of any one celebration—I find giving attention to a food-centric event helps immensely. Take for example a walk through a local market…

Going to town
Black Friday Macy’s

Touristy stops

When a good friend of mine invited me on a walking tour/culinary event in Seattle—on Black Friday—with her extended family, I said yes. Realizing the craziness of this infamous shopping day would be compounded by Apple Cup attendees, kids on school break and all around holiday high jinks, I knew my group add-on status would take the pressure off of me. Whew!

Eleven of us rendezvousing downtown meant slightly different arrival times for all. My merry band of three rode in on the light rail, thus avoiding freeway traffic and giving us a cushion of about two hours. After a little shopping, we took flight at a local tourist attraction: Wings Over Washington. Similar to EPCOT’s Soarin’, this aerial movie theatre experience had us flying over treetops, tulip fields, wine country and coastal scenery. Family friendly, it was a fun way to spend a little time while waiting for our peeps.

WOW!
Space Needle photo bomb

Kooky glops

Gathering at the official meeting place for our foodie walking event, we found ourselves at the entrance of Unexpected Productions’ Market Theater in Pike Place Market’s Post Alley. Up for coffee warmth, I paid a visit to Ghost Alley Espresso, just a few steps away from the theater. A small place that serves big, bold, locally roasted (and very delicious!) coffee beverages. Latte in hand, I made my way back to our meeting point, taking care to avoid the chewing gum…

Miriam, our Savor Seattle tour guide, gathered us at our first stop: the Market Theater Gum Wall. Bringing us up to speed on its sticky and colorful history, we were entertained by the simplicity of it all. Theater goers in the early 1990s being asked to dispose of their gum prior to entering the lobby; the manager pointing out to the building landlord that the theater is not responsible for cleaning the outside walls; tourists and locals turning the whole thing into urban art. Priceless!

Latte time!
Chewy…
The tour begins…

Since 2015, these walls of stickiness receive an annual scraping, usually in October. We were lucky enough to see about six weeks of gum work buildup, post scrapping. Making our way past bubble gum artists in progress, we headed to our first real culinary stop upstairs…

Culinary chops

On the market’s main level, there’s a doughnut place that would be easy to miss. The best way to find it? By its wonderful sugary dough smell, and it’s loooooong line of patrons awaiting their chance to by a bag of fried goodness: Daily Dozen Doughnuts. Simple—just fried dough sprinkled with sugar—but oh so good. After trying one, I could totally understand the line…

From donuts…
…to yogurt…

Stepping outside for a bit, near the flying seafood of Pike Place Fish, Miriam shared a little market history with us, 1907 up to now. Crossing the brick lined street to the Sanitary Market building, we sampled our next treat: Ellenos Greek Yogurt—marionberry, followed by passion fruit—very tasty!

Heading a bit north, we moved from sweet to savory with mini street tacos from Los Agaves. Soooooooo delicious—I’m definitely going back for more the next time I’m at the market.

Excellent tacos!
Excellent truffles!

Walking and talking (and chewing), our group was having fun getting to know each other. The icebreaker Miriam emceed at the tour’s start helped us with friendly conversations. Along with our clan of 11 Pacific Northwesters, there was a couple from Texas and a couple from Australia.

The Truffle Queen gave us a taste of black and white in the form of salt, spreads, oils and sauces. Just give me a spoon—I’ll happily finish off any of those jars. Our host shared a fun option this shop provides: with your Truffle Queen purchase, they’ll ship anything anywhere. Even the umbrella you’re tired of carrying around can be shipped home along with your truffle salt…

Yummy chowder…
…and amazing cheese!

Pike Place Chowder shared cups of their signature dish; so wonderfully perfect, especially on this rather chilly day. At Beecher’s Handmade Cheese (another food group of mine), I learned an important detail for all market vendors: they must be original to Pike Place. They can expand out into the world, but already franchised/multiple store vendors cannot set up shop here.

Wrapping up our Black Friday foodie tour with crab cakes from Etta’s Seafood Restaurant—the best crab cakes I’ve ever had by the way—Miriam asked us to say our favorite tour treat. While I chose the doughnuts and the crab cakes, everything truly was excellent.

Tour stop!
Souvenirs…
Ghost gifts

Happy taste buds and tummies in tow, we said our goodbyes, and headed off into the throngs of holiday goings-on, ready to face the season’s events. At least until the next meal…

So…why do I do it? Deal with all the holiday hubbub? After this year’s Black Friday, I came to realize that we’re all in this together. Whatever group activity we choose. However much time we spend as a clan. And when we focus on doing things—helpful/mindful/respectful things for and with each other, we almost always come away with smiles. We see the smiles on others, and we feel them on our own faces and in our hearts. And we make memories. And maybe—just maybe—that’s why…J 😊

Meandering Monterey Bay

Just in case you’re in the mood for a warm and sunny, kind and inviting, historical and sophisticated, waves-meet-sand-meets-“it” sort of place, you just might be up for a visit to Monterey.

Monterey Bay window
Fisherman’s Wharf treats
Honoring famous locals

American Author John Steinbeck gleaned inspiration from this special place for many of his famous novels. Spending a day here, I certainly understand why…

The wharf

What once served as a place for unloading steamship passengers and goods—as well as selling fish—the Old Fisherman’s Wharf is now a big part of Monterey’s tourist industry. Colorfully inviting store and restaurant fronts line the walkway, each tugging us their direction.

Fun shops!
A busy place
Um..

We entered one very interesting candy shop—Candy World—and discovered (but didn’t buy!) chocolate-covered Twinkies. (I just couldn’t…) We did, however, pick up some delicious chocolate caramel sea salt taffy…

There’s a large parking lot near the wharf’s entrance for convenience (unless you happen to come by boat), which also serves the Coastal Recreation Trail—a path to the setting of a rather famous place…

Author’s own words
A walkable view
The author

The row

Writing fictional stories based on real places—familiar places—lends a lot of rich detail to an author’s words. Steinbeck grew up in Salinas, not too far from Monterey’s Cannery Row.

As the name implies, several canneries operated on this street for decades. From the daily lifestyles of this fish processing capital, he created colorful characters that live in his books as well as come to life via Hollywood and the silver screen.

The famous row
A famous local

Approaching Cannery Row from the path, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of awe for Steinbeck’s historical presence here. Looking for a coffee place, that feeling was rewarded at Tidal Coffee.

Located at the Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa (a place I’d love to stay at one day!), Tidal Coffee honors those local artists who’ve contributed masterpieces of literature and visual arts, as well as honoring other great achievements by locals.

Hidden selfie
The author’s wall
Great coffee!
Coffee and goodies

My favorite find inside was their display of Steinbeck novels, some even for sale! We enjoyed our cappuccinos at one of Tidal’s outside tables, taking in quite the amazing view.

Seeking some sweet souvenirs, we stepped into the Ghirardelli Ice Cream & Chocolate Shop—a petite version of its San Francisco sibling. We picked up seasonal Pumpkin Spice Caramel squares; sooooo yummy! But we really should have lunch first…

Sweets
Savories

In the mood for seafood, we were an easy catch for a Louie Linguini’s restaurant server who was giving chowder samples to passersby. Yummy stuff—so we headed inside for more…

We chose outdoor seating, and were rewarded with a breathtaking view! And the food? Wonderful! A little bread, seafood salads and a crisp white wine…heavenly…

A fun place
Excellent seafood
Excellent seafood
Excellent view

The sea

At the end of Cannery Row swims a whale of a non-profit organization worthy of a visit: the Monterey Bay Aquarium. The sixth largest aquarium on the planet, this wondrous place is a living, breathing work of art. Home to over 35,000 swimming critters—ginormous and microscopic—there’s something to discover and learn at every turn.

Walking through the galleries, I was impressed with the architecture—plenty of elbow room for everyone—and wide open spaces. It was like being in a two-story shopping mall—with fish. This layout made it very easy to see the sea life residents of this wondrous place. Oh, and yes, they have gift shops too. Three of them…

World’s sixth largest
“Just keep swimming…”
A biiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiig place
Garbage turned art

With ocean conservation as its mission, the aquarium focuses on education. From field trips to internships, and memberships too (and tourists like us!), there’s plenty of take-home knowledge and appreciation for this aquarium’s two million annual visitors.

Jellies!
Diver down
Smile…?
Fishies!
Tight formation
Tuxedos on parade

Once the sardine packing capital of the world—now ocean conservation expert, Monterey Bay has certainly experienced a rich and colorful history. We loved our experiences here, especially fun conversations with locals, who clearly love their town. What would John Steinbeck write about today? I wonder… J 🌊

 

Historical Astoria

I love a crisp autumn day—fiery leaves aiming for the ground under a blue sky, the cool air challenging the sun’s warmth on our faces.

Astoria-Megler Bridge
Flavel House

But enjoying this time of year is even more fun while exploring a few special places in a picturesque seaside town. One such place I recently paid a visit to: Astoria.

Originally one of the oldest settlements on the West Coast—named after John Jacob Astor—this Oregon jewel carefully preserves its amazing past, proudly sharing it with today’s visitors. Just passing through for the day, my husband and I fancied a walk and made a stop or two…

Under the bridge
Very picturesque!
Spanning the river

Back in time

The first noticeable—very picturesque—feature in this coastal-river town is only 50 years old: the Astoria-Megler Bridge. Surprisingly, this pair of small towns is home to one of the longest truss bridges in the nation.

Replacing a ferry system that was always hampered by crazy currents, fog and other weather-related challenges, this attractive span does its part to connect two states, along with a road that connects three countries. Not bad for 1966! We could see it from just about anywhere in town; it likes to photobomb…

Welcome!
Tea time!

Tea time

What does a successful local river bar pilot and businessman do for retirement? Build an 11,000+ square foot Victorian home of course! Captain George Flavel wanted something stylish that he and his family could enjoy, entertain, relax and come home to after visiting the world. Sporting 12-14’ ceilings on the first two floors (and in the basement), I’d say they enjoyed plenty of elbow room…

Now maintained by the Clatsop County Historical Society (and on the National Register of Historic Places), this beautiful structure known as the Flavel House entertains visitors from all over the world. And if you’re up for tea and scones (like me—always!), I suggest booking a tour…

Legacy
Upstairs
News travels…

Entering through the front door, we were escorted to the dining room and conservatory. Taking our seats at the table, I couldn’t help but look around at the ornate wooden walls, floors and furnishings. Enjoying our delicious tea and scones (as any Victorian era group would), we listened to our guide take us through what a typical day was like for this home’s original occupants.

After enjoying one last cuppa, we continued the tour on foot, climbing the sturdy winding staircases up and up. Walking through each room and peering through the many windows, I loved seeing the accessories: the steamer trunks fit for world travel, the art and the fireplaces. And the “hidden” toilets. I guess no one was in the mood to see that particular indoor plumbing feature…

Carriage House
Winter transportation

We ended the tour at the Carriage House, where we watched a short video on the Flavel family history in Astoria. I also paid my respects to the gift shop on our way out…

Maritime

Strolling along Riverwalk, we found ourselves enjoying the past coming together with the present. Like watching the town’s historic trolley making its way along the water’s edge while the epic bridge quietly guards from above.

Honoring…
Maritime Memorial
The park
A better view…

We happened upon several historical markers along the walkway, but there’s one that impressed me the most: Maritime Memorial Park. One would expect a maritime city to have such a special and beautiful way of honoring Astorians who died at sea. But seeing two workers adding new plaques made me realize that a life at sea remains a challenging way to make a living.

Victorian style
Riverwalk
Pretty!
Honor
Legacy
History

Astoria’s river-meets-ocean locale was a perfectly picturesque stop for us, before continuing on our way. But I would love to return for a long weekend, just so we could explore a little more. Its beauty and history transcends all seasons. J ⚓️

Mount Rainier’s Railroad

Perhaps you’ve heard that “Necessity is the mother of invention.” But I never would have guessed it invented time zones.

Locomotion
Mt. Rainier Railroad

What began in Ancient Greece as a way for animals to pull heavy items or large quantities with ease, today’s trains move everything from products to people all over the world.

So when the first iron horse rolled across the tracks of Great Britain (way back in 1804), travelers from all over quickly realized one thing: schedules! Yes, crossing vast countryside meant wanting to arrive at a specific time. Hence the creation and unification of time zones.

Wine menu back
All aboard!
Wine menu front

Catching up to today, my husband and I just had to keep an eye on the time in our zone: an 11:30 am departure with the Mount Rainier Railroad…

Elbe’s junction

Thanks to a coworker’s very special birthday gift, we found ourselves looking online at this heritage railroad company’s very seasonal event options. Wine tasting in September, brewing up October…the Great Pumpkin and The Polar Express—goodness! Gotta narrow it down to one. Letting our own existing schedules decide, we chose wine…

Elbe Lutheran Church
DeWitt’s Elbe Junction

Arriving at the train station early, we checked in, then began to look around. One of the smallest churches in the country was tough to miss: the Elbe Lutheran Church—founded by German settlers and on the National Register of Historic Places—shares the same parking lot with Mount Rainier Railroad. And across the street—coffee!

Ready for a little java, we headed over to DeWitt’s Elbe Junction. What a fun store—plenty to peruse here. Lattes and biscotti in hand, we seated ourselves at a small table between two cozy rocking chairs and enjoyed the moment.

Time for java
Amen!
Yum…

Mount Rainier’s RR

Finishing up our late morning treats, we headed back to the train station just in time to watch the beautiful vintage rail cars pull forward. Originally servicing Pacific Northwest logging camps of the early 1900s, this American Heritage Railways member now takes curious travelers to themed events by going back in time…

Boarding our coach, we found our table set and ready for our tasting event: one souvenir wine glass, six drink tickets and a mini meat and cheese tray. Perfect!

…on the job
Tickets please!
…ready and waiting

Our conductors—dressed in vintage style (complete with pocket watch)—posed for pics and answered my funny questions. Like: which way is the mountain? (In my defense, there was just enough cloud cover combined with a few curves of the track for me to lose sight of the tallest mountain in the state…)

The scenery was stunning—lots of forest and river views with every twist and turn. A staff member poured us a sample from one of the featured wine vendors awaiting our arrival at the tent.

Welcome!
Time to wine!

The conductors—eager to share the great vistas with all passengers—invited everyone to make their way to the open air train car. They did not disappoint—plenty of viewing room on both sides of the car. I managed to arrive just in time to cross the Nisqually River with the mountain base making an appearance. Gorgeous!

Mineral’s party

Arriving in style, we stepped down from the train and into Mineral. A former mining town turned logging camp, this small community is now home to Mount Rainier’s logging museum and event locale.

A beautiful view
Live music

Stretching our legs, we wandered a bit before visiting the wine and food tents. The museum’s featured artifacts are outside: logging equipment, including a very old ski plane. A few vintage steam engines were covered from the elements, but granted access to interested event patrons.

Back to the party! A live band played near the base of a Paul Bunyan statue (absent Babe). Showcasing Pacific Northwest vintners and brewers, five wine tents and one cider tent poured one sample per drink ticket. We chose varietals and vendors that were new to us, and all were delicious.

Winter equipment
Wine!
This way!
Paul…

Shaken Bar Room and Bistro, also local, catered the event, providing finger foods like mini tacos and fresh fruits and cheeses. Very yummy stuff that kept our tummies happy. We headed back to the logging museum/gift shop and purchased a few bottles of the wines we liked best. And before we knew it, the whistle was blowing: time to make our way back…

Waiting for us at our table was a chocolate steam engine. Not too big—just the right amount of sweetness to end our vino focused meal as the train took us back to Elbe.

Choo-choo train
Smiling faces
Choo-choo chew!
The mountain…

Truly a fun way to spend a few hours, I recommend you take this train ride back in time. A dose of history and fun near the base of Mount Rainier—in the train inspired time zone called the Pacific. Toot-toot! Just don’t be late… J 🚂

 

Les deux Palouse

I dedicate this blog post to Pat, one of my very best friends, who just lost her courageous battle with cancer. She has been–and always will be–my inspiration in my writings, travels and parenting, and so much more. In her words, “If you can take the trip, don’t wait. See the world. Go…” I will–I promise. J 

The Palouse
Downtown Moscow

There’s something about rolling hills and endless fields of grain under a beautiful blue sky that just gives off good vibes. French-Canadian fur traders of yesteryear referred to the area where the borders of Washington and Idaho meet up as “pelouse”—land with short and thick grass.

Moscow, ID
Pullman, WA

While the fur traders’ primary reason for visiting this land of rounded grassy mini mountains was, well, furry, The Palouse of today is all about growing food. And fun. And for two college towns, thriving economies.

On a recent road trip to this happening place, my daughter and I experienced for ourselves how this landlocked corner of the Pacific Northwest is anything but square…

Motor Inn coolness
Fuzzy!
Monarch’s patio

Lodge-ical

Every fun road trip deserves a hip motor inn on its route. For us, that meant the newly renovated Monarch Motel. Friendly helpful staff, comfy clean rooms, and funky décor (like fuzzy orange throw pillows!) made this boutique hotel the perfect home base for our Palouse adventure.

And its location can’t be beat—walking distance to everything in downtown Moscow. Gotta love that! Just a few steps to stores, restaurants and one very swank farmers market…

A fantastic market
Flowers!
Yummy Egyptian food
Shopping…

Eventful

True to its name, the Moscow Farmers Market sells local seasonal produce—super fresh and very colorful. But this Saturday-only, May-October event isn’t just about fruits and veggies; nope. It’s all about pizazz…

We entered the market at one end of the closed-off road where a local band played upbeat tunes for all passers by. Walking with our friends, we encountered another band playing at a city park, surrounded by market vendors and patrons. No shortage of music here!

Town symbol

Selling everything from painted rocks to fresh cut flowers to yummy kabobs, this street party has it all. I even tried Egyptian food for the first time ever! A dish known as Koshari—and it was goooooood…

Not to be outdone by Moscow, Pullman was hosting its own event that same weekend: the National Lentil Festival. Yes, that’s right—this little legume has its very own annual party. Farmers in The Palouse grow and harvest about one quarter of the lentils (and other pulse crops) for the United States. Because of that stat, this town throws one heck of a summer celebration.

The mascot
A message
Lentil chili yum…

From the downtown parade to the ginormous vat of lentil chili, we found ourselves in good company. Ever present vendors selling their wares, alongside food booths, activities, cooking demos, and of course, lentils. My daughter opted for a bowl of the featured chili dish, while I (still full from my Egyptian brunch) acquired small bags of the dried take-home ready-to-cook variety.

Flavorful

In the mood for fried garbanzos, pasta and funky drinks our first night out, we stepped into Nectar. Just across the street from our hotel meant an easy walk back to our room, once we were ready to sleep off our long drive + food coma.

Across the street
Funky room art

And we had this wonderful restaurant to thank for our recently remodeled roadside inn; Nectar owns the Monarch, offering its dining patrons who are overnight guests a 10% discount on all meals.

There’s a long list of fantastic food and beverage places we enjoyed here in this small town. Here’s the short version:

Bloom for brunch, serving me one of the best grilled cheese sandwiches I’ve had to date. It’s not-so-secret ingredient? Cougar Gold cheddar.

Bloom

Maialina for pizza—and not just any pizza! Unique is one word I would use to describe their menu; superb is another I’ll use to describe the flavors. Seriously good…

Hunga Dunga. Aside from the unusual name, this brew house has a delicious, ever-changing menu. I enjoyed a brisket sandwich on a pretzel bun. Stick-to-your-ribs gooooood…

The Breakfast Club. Fun decor, serving large portions, they’re not afraid to feed you the good stuff here.

Seasonal pizza
Olive oil dessert
The pizza place

Café Artista. Gotta have my java! Also One World Café. Gotta have more java… Both offer great coffee drinks very close to our temporary Moscow residence.

And in Pullman, our friends’ java joint of choice? Café Moro. Excellent coffee, and conveniently located on the same corner as our Lentil Festival parade perch…

Last, but not least: Colter’s Creek wine tasting room. What an upbeat place! Also within walking distance to our hotel, I really enjoyed my Chardonnay—made locally from their Lewis-Clark Valley vines.

Cafe Artista goodness
One World Cafe yum
Colter’s Creek wine bar
Cafe Artista

Educational

Taking our legs for a walk is an easy thing to do in a college town. Just head for the campus. University of Idaho (established 1889) features an arboretum and botanical garden, and very convenient walking paths. It’s the one place where Vandals are accepted—in the form of their team mascot…

Over in Pullman, the Washington State University Cougars (established 1890) are busy making cheese. Really-really-really excellently yummy cheese! This commercial product made on campus at the WSU Creamery date stamps each can of deliciousness with the student employee’s first name too. Quite a nice personal touch.

YUMMMMMMMMM
An important message

Artful

From street décor to metal works to galleries to culinary masterpieces, there is no shortage of amazing art in The Palouse. In search of souvenirs, we managed to find a good concentration of all things artful at Essential Works Art Gallery. It was their sandwich board that drew me in: “Chocolate—Open” …yup…

The representation of local and regional artists was amazing. Before leaving the store, I purchased glass earrings, wine bottle ornaments, specialty coffee beans (after sampling the brewed version), and of course chocolate. Hope I didn’t forget anything…

Chocolate!
Street art, Moscow
Essential Art Gallery
Inside Cafe Moro

Sustainable

Investing in its future, this beautiful corner of the world is all about sustainability. Along with recycle bins, I enjoyed discovering repurposed buildings and reminders painted on the street, asking to care about what drains to the streams. Before heading home, our friends took us to one last stop: The Palouse-Clearwater Environmental Institute.

In addition to providing us with beautiful walking trails, this local non-profit organization educates young students and adults alike in ways to care for our crops as well as the land, streams and animals. Important knowledge to share regarding The Palouse of tomorrow.

Caring
Palouse-Clearwater Environmental Institute
A beautiful view
Palouse-Clearwater Environmental Institute

Heading back home, we enjoyed seeing the beautiful rolling hills one more time as our car followed the highway’s many curves. What a gorgeously fun place! But knowing that the locals are looking out for the land’s future gives me a good vibe for The Palouse of today. J 🌾

 

Sitka’s walkable beauty

To enjoy cruising with my friends means to enjoy a lot of great food too. Which also means needing to do a lot of walking to keep up with my culinary intake. So… to help me with my walkies goal, this day’s shore excursion of choice took my cabin mate and me on a hike through a small part of the largest national forest in the United States: Tongass.

Sitka Historical Park
Sitka’s marina
An eagles convention

Encompassing a big chunk of the Pacific temperate rain forests, this gorgeously green place is home to five species of salmon—and their prey—as well as old growth trees, countless critters and floral varieties galore. And for a day, me—and our eager group of hikers…

Welcome!
Learning about raptors
Honored retiree
Flight training center

Cause and care

Seeing an eagle in flight is a pretty cool thing—hunting, soaring or resting for just a moment on a tree branch, this beautiful raptor creates excitement for spectators with every glimpse. But when these feathered flying machines run into trouble—into cars, wires or other human obstacles—life becomes an instant struggle. Our first stop for the morning? A place that helps rehabilitate such birds of prey: the Alaska Raptor Center.

This wonderful nonprofit facility aids all injured raptors (and non-raptor birds too) with rescue, rehabilitation and rerelease into the wild, and has done so since 1980. Entering the building, our group was brought up to speed on the history of the organization, as well as raptor characteristics. But… how does one treat a bird of prey without compromising its chances of returning home? With a very sophisticated routine. And a pretty cool physical therapy room…

Retired wisdom
A great mission
Important educators
A young eagle

Entering the observation area of the raptors’ PT building meant we had to mind our manners. Not that the birds could see us, thanks to the one way mirror and camouflage netting. Recovering eagles (and other birds, like owls) receive their food—primarily salmon—twice daily, but no actual interaction with humans.

In an effort to reacclimate the birds to their natural environment, openings near the ceiling allow outside air and weather elements to enter the room. Perches and ropes of varying heights serve as PT equipment. The higher a bird can go, the readier it is to go home. But what about those who can no longer make the climb?

Old growth art
Walking and learning
Enter…

Outside the building, just behind the PT room, we observed the raptors’ “retirement” facility. These retirees have rooms and netted areas open to the sky. They also receive quit a bit of human interaction, participating in educational events like field trips—even traveling on airplanes and making guest appearances in the lower 48!

Canopy and culture

Leaving the Raptor Center, we continued our journey on foot, heading for the next leg of our adventure: the Sitka National Historical Park. Honoring both the native Tlingit tribe and the Russian settlers of Sitka, this park features beautiful wide trails, lots of totem poles, historical and wildlife placards—and TONS of salmon.

Salmon observation…
A very clear stream
Salmon rest stop
A little info

While I expected to see our fishy friends swimming upstream, I did not expect to see them—so many of them—just chillin. From our trail’s footbridge, it was easy to spot Pink and Chum salmon in the shallow water, resting. Preparing. It was as if they were waiting for a starting gun to fire…

Walking along under this incredible canopy of trees, our guide Dana talked about the salmon, fish-loving bears and eagles, and the forest itself: the trees, plants and flowers, and the importance of the rainforest’s existence that keeps it all in balance.

Visitors welcome
Storytelling
Sitka’s beach
I see you!

Exiting the forest, we came to the park’s visitor center. And gift shop! I picked up two pairs of earrings featuring both the eagle and the raven—birds that symbolize a key balance in the representation and harmony of the Tlingit people.

Colony and church

Continuing our on-foot adventure, we followed the Sitka Sea Walk along the marina toward the city’s center. We stopped at a few points of interest along the way, one in particular that claims space on the National Register of Historic Places: St. Peters-by-the-Sea Episcopal Church.

Summer flowers

Completed in 1899, this rustically attractive place of Christian worship features a Star of David at the center of its gorgeous rose window. Truth be told, it wasn’t the religious symbol the Episcopalians requested on the order form. A slight mix-up at the factory.

But… given the craftsmanship and time put into this beautiful stained glass feature—and the distance it had to travel from the East Coast to Sitka (no Panama Canal back then), they decided to keep it. Respectfully, they came to honor the window’s symboled Star as a reminder of their own faith’s very beginnings.

The alter
A little info

Do you know that Russia’s presence in Sitka lasted over 100 years? Initially drawn to this area for fur trading, Russian settlers planted roots in this coastal Alaskan town, establishing a colony and creating their own home in the New World. We found out a little more as we approached the city’s center…

Saint Michael’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral, established 1837 and now a national historic landmark, houses several pieces of very old Russian-American art. Under the beautiful green domes, a fire in 1966 claimed most of the original structure, but not before many of the priceless artifacts were rescued by some very daring souls.

We’re here!
Awesome fish & chips
The bar
Driftwood art

Chips and coffee

Having worked up an appetite—specifically for fish & chips—my friend and I asked our tour guide for a recommendation. Her choice? The Sitka Hotel Restaurant and Lounge.

Not too far from the cathedral, we located its wooden façade and walked in. Clever driftwood art decorated the walls, with Mason jar lights illuminating the seating area. We found our table, placed our order and enjoyed some of the best fish & chips I’ve ever had!

Too much java?
Coffee time!
Colorful place!

To round out my Sitka mealtime, I topped off my tank with a latte from A Little Something espresso. A colorful place that serves an excellent cup of joe.

Our walkies adventure over, we made our way to the shuttle stop and awaited our ride back to the ship. Reflecting on our day, I couldn’t stop thinking about the clear stream, teeming with salmon, waiting for the next—possibility last—leg of their journey, just to complete their circle of life.

Salmon-salmon-salmon!
Raptor
Window art
Greenery

Except for a few bear and eagle interrupting their trip, I hope these fishy friends of the Tongass will always have that chance. J 🌲

 

Golden Skagway

“GOLD! GOLD! GOLD!” In the history of eye-catching newspaper headlines, this Seattle Post Intelligencer attention getter from July 17, 1897 did its job. Gold fever hit the nation right between the eyes. Suddenly everyone knew about such places as the Klondike River, Canada’s Yukon Territory and one small, soon-to-be-very-busy Alaska town: Skagway.

WP&YR
Scenic route scenery

Located at the base of White Pass Trail—declared one of the “easier” treks to the Yukon gold fields—Skagway became a boomtown for many stampeders and other opportunistic businesses. Preparing to trek through the rough, tough, freezing and unforgiving wilderness wasn’t easy; neither was the trip itself.

Many gold seekers—and their animals—didn’t make it. Some managed to find their way back, whether or not they found gold. By sharp contrast, my recent trip up the pass was a lot easier…

At sea level
Looking back

Scenic route

Looking for a relaxing way to enjoy the mountain scenery, our cruise group of travel companions chose the White Pass Summit Excursion. How exciting to ride in an actual vintage train car! We boarded not too far from our ship, and began our own climb up to the pass. Along the way, we were treated to gorgeous views and brought up to speed on the train’s features—and its original purpose…

In that first year of attempts to reach the Klondike, and with soooooo many would-be miners struggling for a safer way over the pass than by foot, railroad companies and their tycoons soon found their way to Skagway.

Enjoying the journey
Beautiful!
Following along

Making our way through tunnels and along the rugged terrain, our train conductors and staff shared details of the train’s history along with fun facts about the flora and fauna visible just outside our cars.

The thrilling part for me was standing on the platforms between the connecting cars—one amazingly unobstructed view after another! I tried to imagine the views had by the construction workers all those years ago…

Looking ahead
Looking around
Looking behind

Construction madness

Just nine months after the infamous GOLD! newspaper headline hit the streets, the new White Pass & Yukon Railroad Company began construction. And about nine months after that, the main track reached the summit. It would be another year before the tracks made it all the way to the Yukon—about the time the gold rush came to an end.

Crazy working conditions for the thousands who built this engineering marvel, but appreciated by all who dared brave their way to—and from—their would-be treasure. And for the WP&YR, there was plenty of life after the gold rush.

Watch your step!
Such a view!
My perch

From my perch on the platform, I loved seeing the train itself make its way along the bends and trestles of the track. The spectacular waterfalls—and trees growing from rock—were breathtaking.

But our own trip hit a bit of a snag; technical difficulties with one of the switches caused us to make a stop near the summit. We had to turn back before reaching our destination: White Pass.

Above sea level
Train stop
Swag

The conductors and crew handled it all professionally, even assuring price discounts—and free swag—for all passengers onboard. Heading back down the tracks, I thought briefly of those hopeful miners and critters hiking up the freezing trail who had to turn back too. Only they wouldn’t have been issued a refund…

Boomtown

Ready to stretch my legs after our train ride, I made my way along the boardwalks and sidewalks of Skagway in search of souvenirs. And coffee. And a pastry. In general, such items aren’t terribly difficult to find in your average tourist town, except my family back home requested game meat. Um… okay…

Souvenirs and a treat
Yummy!
Breaktime
Coffeeeeeee!

I’d already located my java beverage at the White Pass Coffee Bar, but wanted to check items off my souvenir list first before enjoying my treats. As luck would have it, I found such gamey gifts—and my pastry—at Klondike Doughboy. Hurray! What a fun, clean adorable store—and the fry bread is amazing! They had a good selection of vacuum-sealed cured meat treats too; perfect for my shopping quest.

I doubled back to the coffee bar for my iced latte, then found a park bench to rest and refresh with my delicious fry bread and caffeine goodness. Ahhhhhhh…yum…

What to pack
Hopes and dreams
Teamwork across borders

As I made my way back to the ship, I happened upon placards, statues and old time photos honoring the many people, businesses and events that put this boomtown on the map. For the very few fortunate enough to find gold, their claims and names would make the record books.

A big snowblower
The town
Welcome!

For everyone else, well… some are forever captured in the many sepia photos showcased throughout the town. I think it’s pretty cool of Skagway to remember and honor those who dared to dream; to reach those fields of gold. J💰

 

Up-n-down Juneau

Between the Gastineau Channel and the bases of Mount Roberts and Mount Juneau sits Alaska’s capital city: Juneau. Bearing a closer resemblance to a quaint coastal village than to a US government seat, this Southeast Alaskan hub packs a lot into its limited—and somewhat unreachable—locale.

Hi Tahku!

At a recent cruise stop, I was able to experience a few of the literal highs and lows this town has to offer. While my cabin mate headed for Mendenhall Glacier, I opted for afternoon tea—about 1800 feet up…

Waterfront

Looking for a shore excursion that included a tour guide’s expertise (but also allowed for personal wandering time downtown) lead me to Gastineau Guiding’s Town, Tram & Timberline Trek. Our first stop? Saying hello to Tahku, the Humpback whale, who greats all his visitors with a splash roughly every few minutes.

Visiting Tahku
More waterfront art…
Waterfront art

This impressive fountain and statue—a beautiful life-like replica—lives at Overstreet Park, near the Juneau-Douglas Bridge. The statue’s detail is incredible, from the full breach pose down to the whale’s barnacles. Tahku came to town to help celebrate Alaska’s 50th anniversary of statehood. He’s simply gorgeous!

Upslope

After waving goodbye to Tahku, we headed to our mountainous mode of transportation: the Mount Roberts Tramway. Our sophisticated coach in the sky took us 1800 feet up (giving us spectacular views in the process!) to the next leg of our adventure: the Alpine Loop Trail.

Our ride…
…up there…?!
Going up!
Big gears…

Jocelyn—our fantastic guide—lead us along this meandering 1.5 mile path from the subalpine to the alpine level of Mount Roberts, bringing us up to speed on native plants and trees, the people of Juneau (native and otherwise), and also the “bear” facts, should we encounter any of the large fuzzy critters…

Tickets please!
This way…

The views from the trail were amazing! The Sitka Spruce and Western Hemlock provided natural frames for many a photo, including those I took of the cruise ships docked in the channel waaaaaaaay below our mountain perch. Several trees along the trail also sported carvings—stories being shared with each passerby…

Come on in!
Tea time!
Yum…
Built by wind

Time for tea! One of my favorite events of any day, our little group of hikers entered the Alpine Tea Room, and enjoyed a few locally made teas, along with jams made from Alaskan berries and plants. My favorite brew was the Alaskan Wild Rose tea. And yes, I made a purchase of this item (plus a few other odds and ends) at their gift shop in the Mount Roberts Nature Center. Don’t judge…

Downtown

After returning to sea level via the tram, I made my way through the very walkable streets of Juneau to a rather famous watering hole: the Red Dog Saloon. Known as the oldest tourist attraction in town, it definitely has that “come inside” appeal. A friend and former Juneau resident suggested I stop in for a drink. Well, I didn’t want to let her down…

 

Enter…
Sidearm photo bomb

Meeting up with my cabin mate, we “bellied up to the bar” (…no—really! Not one table available; just two bar stools…), ordered our drinks and nosh, then swung around every so often to enjoy the live music. The sawdust on the floor politely hid the dirt from my hiking shoes. The décor on walls distracted us—in a fun way—from getting too carried away in conversation. One novelty in particular caught my eye: Wyatt Earp’s gun, framed and unclaimed behind the bar. Legendary!

While enjoying the sights and sounds of this happening place from the comfort of my own bar stool, I very much enjoyed my Copper River Queso and Chips as well (made with a ton of white cheddar!), along with a nice white Chardonnay all the way from California. But before you think I wimped out on having a real saloon drink, we ordered the penultimate shot: a Duck Fart…

Excellent nosh!
A duck’s fart…
1-2-3…
The decor…

You heard me! One part Kahlua, one part Bailey’s Irish Cream and one part Whiskey. After seeing this drink promoted just about everywhere in Alaska, I knew I couldn’t head back to the lower 48 without adding this experience to my memory bank. Truth be told, it was delicious! I now have a new favorite shot glass beverage, along with a copy of the recipe on a Red Dog Saloon magnet souvenir…

A capital city
Newish
Oldish
Devil’s Club

Our short-but-sweet trip to Juneau complete, we headed back to the ship. By sea or by air—the only two ways in and out of this capital city. Even though arrival and departure methods are a bit limited, a trek to this town is well worth the effort. And a Duck Fart at the Red Dog is worth it too… J 🥃

 

Fetching Ketchikan

For centuries—long before art became objects at auctions or entered studios and performance halls—drawings, carvings, music and dance were the way to share life’s experiences. Pass along history and traditions. Tell stories. Give information. Simply put, to communicate.

Totem pole smile
North to Alaska!
Creek Street elevated

Totem poles, carved and painted by Pacific Northwest coastal native tribes, are beautifully enduring works of art that tell stories and share history in a most unique way.

On a recent cruise stop in Ketchikan, Alaska, I learned a few things about these spectacular carvings, along with the migration of settlers from the lower 48, and the impressions left behind by one key US government official—recorded forever at the top of a towering cedar trunk…

The Raven
Trolly ho!
Mr. Seward
The Eagle

Tall carvings

The year: 1868. The place: Portland Canal, in the new Alaska Territory. The visitor: Secretary of State William Henry Seward. His hosts? The Tlingit people, Tongass tribe. Welcoming Mr. Seward and celebrating his arrival with a total of four potlatches, they looked forward to successful trade relations between their tribes and the United States.

The Tlingit even erected a totem pole in his honor. But when Mr. Seward neglected to return the favor—that is host the same number of potlatches honoring the native tribes—his likeness was marked in red. Something akin to indicating cheapness. Oops…

Clan house
Rows of totem poles
Stories about stories

Walking around the Saxman Native Village, I noticed bare trunks that featured an animal or a person only at the top. I soon learned that all totem poles tell a complete story, which doesn’t always involve carving the entire log. And no sanding—carving tools only, with paint as a finishing touch.

Six feet of the trunk is buried in the ground for stability. And when the totem would fall, it was left as is to “return to the Earth.” Nowadays, many totem poles are being restored, anchored by a sturdy base to prevent rotting. True artistry and skill are apparent in each standing pillar of history—each a tall wooden, timeless storybook. I was mesmerized…

This way!
Looking for lunch…
Swimming upstream…

Long boardwalks

Leaving the village, our guide dropped us off in town to further explore on our own. The wooden structures—especially along Creek Street—made me think of the “Old West” (substituting tall evergreens for tumbleweeds).

Elevated boardwalks meandered along Ketchikan Creek, allowing for easy access to hillside residences, shops and businesses, as well as providing excellent views and vista points.

Brothel turned museum
Holiday shopping
Souvenir shopping
Raven steals the sun…

Seeing salmon swimming upstream and eagles attempting to disrupt that process, just by leaning against a nearby shop railing, seemed a bit surreal. Wildlife doing its thing alongside tourists doing theirs…

Big business

Happening upon a shop called “Christmas in Alaska,” I couldn’t resist. In addition to finding wonderful souvenirs—and holiday trinkets I suddenly couldn’t do without—I discovered something called Devil’s Club. Native to Alaska, its salve is great for things like calming the itchy bug bite on my hand…

Village scoop
Influx of tourists
Downtown Ketchikan
North to Alaska!
Performing for cruisers

Something else I learned: this store isn’t open during the holidays; it is only open for tourist season. Cruise ships have a huge impact on the economy of this otherwise small Alaskan town.

Heading back to the pier to board my floating hotel, I thought about what it must take for this beautiful coastal community to be showtime ready, May through September. Maybe, one day, there will be a totem pole to tell that story to future passers by. Hopefully without featuring a lot of red paint…J 🎨